(Photo Courtesy of Tom Servais)
This is the second installment of the "We Always Need Heroes" series, and coincidentally this one is also about another waterman, one of the modern pioneers of waterman - Laird Hamilton. This Hawaiian surfing legend has been a major contributor to not only building the profile of surfing, but also one that has done it on his own terms and in his own way. Surfer, wind/kite/body surfer, hydrofoiler, sailboarder, stand up paddle boarder, and more famously Tow-In Surfing are just a small sample of what this man does for a living.
The Millenium Wave Tahiti
(Photo Courtesy of Tim McKenna)
This man was born for the ocean, and it is his passion for the ocean and how you can use it that I look up to. Despite the fact that he is paid to do it, he is life revolves around playing and living in the ocean, and he does not take it for granted. It is this lifestyle which I am sure many of us wish we had, but Laird developed and worked hard for it and deserves the right to live this way. A humble man by nature, and not one to look for the limelight (ironic considering his character the movie North Shore haha) he is never far from the media but only for doing what he loves.
A bloke never shy from an epic challenge, but it is preparation that is the key to much of his success. Laird eats and drinks organic, drinks little to no alcohol, in bed by 8pm each night, does regular Yoga, stretching, myofascial release work and meditation, and gives loads of love and time to his family. To top off the list HE IS A GYM JUNKY (when the surf isn't pumping), and he and his mates from malibu get together and do these wicked circuits.
A man of incredible talents in the water he has inspired many (and even scored critics too), but it is his overall outlook on life and how he holds himself that I find appealing. He has been a hero of mine for a long time and when I bought his book "Forces of Nature - Mind, Body, Soul and of course Surfing" I got this amazing new outlook on many things to which I had never considered.
(Photo Courtesy of mensjournal.com)
So I tip my cap to Laird, he will be and will always be a hero of mine. The lessons that I have learned across the board have had a significant impact already, and I sure as hell hope to be dominating like he is at his age, that's for sure!
Enjoy this quick video montage of Laird, and for more Laird stuff click on this link - Laird:
Heroes Lesson (This lesson is courtesy of Lairds book):
Your path is yours alone - The best way to find your path is to start with a dream and then refuse to listen to anyone else's opinions about what you "can" and "can't" do in pursuit of that dream.
Charge It,
PK
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